No Water From Your Well? 7 Things to Check Before You Call

You turn on the faucet and get nothing. Maybe a sputter, a burst of air, then silence. When you're on a well, there's no water company to call and no neighbor on the same line to compare notes with. It's just you, your pump, and a house with no water.

The good news: a no-water problem usually comes down to a short list of causes, and a few of them you can check yourself in five minutes. Here's what to look at, in order, and what each check tells you.

A quick safety note first. Most well pumps run on 240 volts. Don't open the pressure switch cover, the control box, or any wiring at the wellhead. Every check below is look-and-listen only.

1. Is It the Whole House or Just One Faucet?

Before you head outside, try a few other fixtures: the kitchen sink, a bathroom, an outdoor spigot. If only one faucet is dry or weak, the problem is almost always inside the house, like a clogged aerator, a closed shutoff valve, or a problem with that fixture. If every tap is dry, the problem is somewhere between the well and your plumbing, and it's time to keep going.

2. Check the Breaker

Your well pump should be on its own double-pole breaker in the main panel, often labeled "well" or "pump." If it's tripped, reset it once.

If water comes back and stays on, you may have had a one-time surge. If the breaker trips again, stop. Don't keep resetting it. A breaker that won't hold usually points to a problem with the pump motor, the wiring down in the well, or the control box, and repeated resets can turn a repair into a replacement.

3. Read the Pressure Gauge

Find the pressure gauge near your pressure tank. It's usually on a fitting between the tank and the pressure switch. What it reads tells you a lot:

The gauge reads zero or close to it. The pump isn't delivering water to the tank. That points to a power issue, a failed pump, a failed switch, or a well that isn't producing.

The gauge reads normal pressure but the house has no water. The water is reaching the tank but not the house. Look for a closed valve, a clogged filter, or a blockage in the line after the tank.

4. Listen at the Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is the small box, usually gray, mounted near the tank. It tells the pump when to turn on and off. When pressure drops, the switch closes and you'll often hear a click as the pump starts.

If the gauge reads low and you hear no click and no pump running, the switch may have failed or the pump isn't getting power. Some switches also have a small lever on the side for a low-pressure cutoff. It shuts the pump off when pressure falls too far, which is a safety feature, not the problem itself. It trips because something else is wrong: the well ran low, there's a major leak, or the pump can't keep up. Resetting it without finding out why usually means it trips again.

5. Check Your Filters and Treatment Equipment

If you have a sediment filter, water softener, or other treatment system, a clogged cartridge can choke flow down to a trickle or nothing. This is especially common on wells that pull sand or sediment. Most systems have a bypass valve. Put the system in bypass and see if water comes back. If it does, you've found your problem. A filter that clogs quickly is also worth mentioning to a well contractor, because it can signal a well that's starting to produce sand.

6. Think About What Happened Right Before

What you noticed before the water stopped is one of the best clues you have.

A storm, a power outage, or lightning nearby. Power surges can damage the pump's control box, the pressure switch, or the motor itself.

Sputtering, air in the lines, or cloudy or sandy water. This often means the water level in the well dropped close to the pump, or the well is starting to clog. Around Yuba City, Gridley, and Colusa, orchards and field crops pull hard on groundwater through the summer, and a well that's fine in April can struggle in August.

The pump had been turning on and off constantly. Rapid cycling wears out a pump fast, and it's often caused by a failing pressure tank. If that sounds familiar, read why your well pump keeps turning on and off.

7. If You Have a Jet Pump, Check for Lost Prime

Most wells in our area use a submersible pump that sits down in the well. But if your pump sits above ground, in a pump house or crawlspace, you likely have a jet pump. These are common on older properties. Jet pumps can lose their prime, meaning they fill with air and stop pulling water. Your pump's manual will cover re-priming. If it keeps losing prime, there's likely a leak in the suction line or a failing foot valve, and that needs a repair.

Protect the Pump While You Wait

If you can hear the pump running or humming but the pressure gauge isn't climbing, turn off the breaker. A submersible pump running without water overheats quickly, and a pump that could have been saved can burn out in the time it takes to get someone out to you.

What It Usually Turns Out to Be

When the quick checks don't solve it, the cause is usually one of these:

A failed pump motor. Pumps wear out, and one that's been short cycling or running low on water wears out sooner.

A bad pressure switch or control box. These are common, relatively simple repairs.

A wiring problem in the well. Splices and wires down the well can corrode or fail over time.

A leak or split in the drop pipe. The pipe that carries water up from the pump can crack, sending water right back down the well.

A failing pressure tank. A waterlogged tank forces the pump to cycle constantly until something gives. See our pressure tank repair and replacement service.

A well that isn't producing like it used to. Mineral buildup, sediment, and clogged screens can cut a well's output over the years. A downhole camera inspection shows what's actually going on, and many of these wells can be brought back with well cleanout and rehabilitation instead of drilling new.

In the rare case that a well has truly failed or gone dry for good, drilling a new domestic well is the long-term fix. That's the last option, not the first one.

When to Call a Pro

Call a well contractor if the breaker trips again after one reset, if the gauge reads zero with power on, if you noticed sputtering, air, or sand before the water quit, or if you've been through this more than once. A proper diagnosis finds the actual cause instead of replacing parts until something works.

We're based in Yuba City and offer emergency and same-day service, so for homes in Yuba City, Marysville, Sutter, and Plumas Lake, help is usually a short drive away. Because we run our own drilling rig, we can also pull and service deep-set pumps that pump-only shops have to sub out. Learn more about our well pump repair and replacement service.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why did my well stop working after a power outage?

Power outages and the surges that come with them can trip the breaker, damage the pressure switch, or burn out the control box or motor. Check the breaker first. If it trips again or the pump won't start, the surge likely damaged a component.

Can a well run dry in the summer?

Yes. Groundwater levels can drop during hot, dry months and heavy irrigation season. A well with a pump set close to the water level, or a well with reduced output from buildup, is the most likely to have trouble. Sometimes lowering the pump or rehabilitating the well solves it.

Does no water always mean I need a new pump?

No. Many no-water calls turn out to be a tripped breaker, a failed pressure switch, a control box, or a clogged filter. A pump replacement should only happen after those simpler causes are ruled out.

How long can a well pump run without water?

Not long. A submersible pump relies on the water around it for cooling. If you suspect it's running dry, shut off the breaker until it's checked.

How fast can you get out for a no-water call?

We offer emergency and same-day service. Call (530) 565-3871 and we'll give you a realistic arrival time.

No Water? We Can Help.

DNA Well Drilling & Pump Services is a family-owned, licensed California contractor (License # 1108209) run by Aaron and David Ratti, with more than 20 years of experience. Based in Yuba City, we diagnose and repair well pumps, pressure systems, and wells in Yuba City, Marysville, Sutter, Gridley, Colusa, Oroville, Plumas Lake, Sacramento, and Roseville.

Free estimates. Call (530) 565-3871 or request an estimate online.