Well Pump Won't Shut Off? Here's What's Going On and What to Do

You hear the pump kick on when someone takes a shower. That's normal. But an hour later, with every faucet off, it's still running. On a well, a pump that won't stop isn't just a noise. It's burning electricity, wearing out the motor, and sometimes telling you something has broken down in the well.

A well pump that won't shut off almost always means one thing: the system can't reach the pressure that tells the pump to stop. The usual causes are water running somewhere you haven't noticed, a leak, a stuck or clogged pressure switch, a low water level in the well, a split drop pipe, or a worn-out pump. Here's how to narrow it down, starting with the step that protects your pump.

Safety first. Most well pumps run on 240 volts. Don't open the pressure switch cover or the control box. Everything below is look, listen, and flip a breaker.

First, Protect Your Pump

If the pump has been running for a long stretch with no water being used, turn off its breaker in the main panel. Leave it off while you work through the checks below, and only turn it back on when a step calls for it.

A submersible pump is cooled by the water flowing past it. If the water level has dropped and it's pulling air, the motor can overheat and burn out. Turning it off costs you nothing and can save the pump.

Running Nonstop vs. Turning On and Off

These two problems sound alike, but they point to different causes.

Won't shut off: The pump starts and keeps running, even when nobody is using water. That's what this guide covers.

Turning on and off constantly: The pump shuts off fine but restarts every few seconds or every time you open a tap. That's short cycling, and it's usually a waterlogged pressure tank. If that sounds like yours, read why your well pump keeps turning on and off.

Read the Pressure Gauge: A 5-Minute Diagnosis

Your pressure switch turns the pump on at one pressure and off at a higher one. Common settings are 30/50 and 40/60 PSI, and the second number, the cut-off, is the one that matters here. Make sure every faucet, hose, toilet, and sprinkler is off, then turn the breaker back on and watch the gauge near your pressure tank.

The Pressure Keeps Climbing Past Where It Normally Stops

Turn the breaker off right away. If the gauge goes well past your usual cut-off and the pump keeps running, the pressure switch isn't doing its job. Too much pressure can damage your tank, fittings, and plumbing. This one needs a pro.

The Pressure Climbs, Then Stalls Below the Cut-Off

The pump is running but can't push the system all the way up. Either something is stealing water, or the pump can't produce enough. Run the next check to find out which.

The Pressure Drops With the Pump Off and No Water Running

With all water off, turn the breaker off and watch the gauge for 15 to 30 minutes. If it falls, water is escaping somewhere: a leak in the house, the buried line between the well and the house, or water draining back down the well through a bad check valve or damaged pipe. The pump keeps running to replace that water.

If the pressure holds steady with the pump off but stalls when it's running, the problem is likely the pump itself or the well, not your house plumbing.

7 Reasons a Well Pump Won't Shut Off

1. Water Is Running Somewhere

Before you blame the pump, rule out water use. A toilet with a leaking flapper, an outdoor hose left dripping, an irrigation zone stuck on, a water softener in its regeneration cycle, or a stuck float on a stock tank can all keep a pump running. Walk the house and property, lift toilet tank lids, and listen.

2. A Leak Between the Well and the House

If the pressure drops with everything off and you can't find a running fixture, the leak may be underground. Look for a soggy patch, standing water, or grass that's greener than the rest along the line from the wellhead to the house, especially in dry weather.

3. A Stuck or Misadjusted Pressure Switch

The pressure switch is the small gray box near your tank. Over time its electrical contacts can burn and stick closed, so it never cuts power to the pump. Its cut-off can also be set higher than an older pump can reach. If the pump keeps running with pressure at or above normal, the switch is the first suspect.

4. A Clogged Pressure Switch Fitting

The switch reads system pressure through a small pipe fitting underneath it. On wells that carry sand, sediment, or iron, that fitting can clog. The switch then can't sense the pressure correctly and doesn't shut the pump off when it should. The fix is cleaning or replacing the fitting, but the sediment that clogged it is worth a closer look too.

5. The Water Level in Your Well Has Dropped

When the water level falls close to the pump, the pump pulls in air along with water and can't build pressure. Watch for sputtering faucets and air in the lines. Around Yuba City, Gridley, and Colusa, heavy summer irrigation draws groundwater down, and a well that's fine in spring can struggle by late summer. Older wells also produce less as mineral buildup clogs the screens. Sometimes the fix is lowering the pump. Other times it's well cleanout and rehabilitation to restore flow.

6. A Split Drop Pipe or Failed Check Valve

The drop pipe carries water from the pump up to the surface. Old galvanized pipe corrodes through, and plastic pipe can crack or separate at a joint. Water the pump pushes up leaks right back down the well, so the system never reaches cut-off. A failing check valve lets water drain back down after the pump stops, so the pump has to refill the line every time. Both repairs mean pulling the pump.

7. A Worn-Out Pump

Pumps wear out. Sand grinds down the impellers, and a pump that short cycled for months on a waterlogged tank wears out faster. A worn pump still moves water, just not with enough pressure to hit the cut-off. Submersible pumps typically last 10 to 15 years. If yours is in that range and everything else checks out, it may be time for well pump repair or replacement.

What a Pump That Won't Shut Off Is Costing You

A pump that runs for hours with nothing to show for it drives up your electric bill. It also puts hours of wear on the motor, and if the water level is low, it can run dry and burn out completely. If the switch is stuck, the pressure can climb high enough to damage your tank and plumbing. Catching it early is often the difference between a switch or valve repair and a full pump replacement.

When to Call a Well Pump Pro

Call a well contractor if:

• The pressure climbs past your normal cut-off.

• The pressure drops with everything off, and you can't find a leak.

• The pump runs but stalls below the cut-off.

• You notice sputtering, air, or sand in your water.

• Your pump is more than 10 years old and has started acting up.

Most of the causes on this list are at the wellhead or down the well, on 240-volt power. A proper diagnosis tests the system first and pulls the pump only when the evidence points there, instead of swapping parts until something works.

Because we run our own drilling rig, we can pull and service deep-set pumps that pump-only shops have to sub out. We offer emergency and same-day service, and homes in Yuba City, Marysville, Sutter, and Gridley are usually a short drive from us.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is it bad if my well pump runs constantly?

Yes, when nobody is using water. A pump that never reaches cut-off pressure wastes electricity and wears out the motor, and if the water level is low, it can overheat. Turn off the breaker and find out why before running it again.

How long can a well pump run without stopping?

Many submersible pumps can run for long stretches when they're actually moving water, like when you're irrigating or filling a tank. The problem is a pump that runs with nothing on, or runs without enough water around it. That's when damage happens.

Can I adjust my pressure switch to make the pump shut off?

Turning the cut-off down can get a worn pump to stop, but it hides the problem instead of fixing it, and the switch carries live 240-volt power. Have the system diagnosed first so you know whether it's the switch, the pump, or the well.

Can a bad pressure tank keep my pump from shutting off?

Usually not. A waterlogged tank causes rapid on-and-off cycling, not nonstop running. But months of short cycling can wear out a pump or pressure switch, which can lead to a pump that won't shut off.

My well pump won't shut off and I have no water. What should I do?

Turn off the breaker right away to protect the pump, then work through our guide on what to check when your well has no water. If the pump was running with no water coming out, call us at (530) 565-3871.

Pump Won't Shut Off? We Can Help.

DNA Well Drilling & Pump Services is a family-owned, licensed California contractor (License 1108209) run by Aaron and David Ratti, with more than 20 years of experience. Based in Yuba City, we diagnose and repair well pumps, pressure switches, check valves, and drop pipe in Yuba City, Marysville, Sutter, Gridley, Colusa, Oroville, Plumas Lake, Sacramento, and Roseville.

Free estimates. Call (530) 565-3871 or request an estimate online.